Total distance: 2821km
Average speed: 22.9km/h
Weather: overcast followed by rain
So far I've had such smooth sailing and today was finally thrown a curveball. It wouldn't be a bike trip without some rough patches, but everything ended beautifully thanks to the unbelievable generosity of strangers.
Checking the weather this morning it had said a rainfall warning for Sioux Narrows and Fort Frances area. I guess I can't escape from it forever. It was overcast in Kenora when I left around 9:30. Riding so far in Ontario has been a gem, the hills are never more than 3-4min of climbing and keep you entertained enough to make the distance pass quickly. I ran again into an older couple who I had seen yesterday but parted with them when I took the turn for Highway 71. It started drizzling after about two hours, which kept me cool and felt nice at first, until it turned into a downpour. Around 70km, I got this ominous feeling that something was not right with my rear shifter and sure enough the derailleur cable snapped shortly after. I was locked into the hardest gear in the back and for the next 10km or so could only use the front rings. My hopes were up when I saw a sporting goods store in Sioux Narrows, but unfortunately fishing equipment were about all they carried. The lady was nice enough to look up the closest bike shop in Fort Frances for me, which I phoned and found out they closed at 5:30. She said it was 70km or so to there and that the terrain was similar to what I had just ridden through, reassuring that I should be able to get there with plenty of time. I was pretty certain it was much further because I had planned to stop at Caliper Provincial Park just past Nestor Falls, which is 130km from Kenora, but maybe the locals know better, so I got going quickly. Going uphills in one gear was tricky and there were some that I had to stand up and give it everything I had. Two hours passed and I still wasn't even in Nestor Falls. By then I was soaking wet and knew for sure I wasn't going to get to Fort Frances. I got to the grocery store in Nestor Falls and called the bike store to let them know I probably couldn't make it. The man on the other end was so nice and called his friend to see if I could stay there for the night. I was waiting around trying to decide what to do when an older couple came in. I guess because I was dripping wet and looked quite panicked, they came over and asked what was wrong. When I told them they said they were going to Fort Frances and immediately offered to bring me and my bike there in their motor home. The two of them were from Edmonton and had been at a cottage in Whiteshell Provincial Park for a nursing reunion (out of all things!). This is where I really appreciated how much faster a car travels. An hour later (so Fort Frances was ~100km from Nestor Falls as I thought) they drove me right to the bike shop McTaggart's. It was already 5 and the guy I talked to on the phone, Russell, got right down to tending my bike. It was really finicky putting in a new cable and he even had to phone someone to ask and look up on his computer for how to install it properly. In the meantime, I phoned Bill and Robin, who had last minute offered to let me stay in their gorgeous waterfront house just outside of Fort Francis, to let them know I was already in town. Russell was an absolute hero and ended up working on my bike long after the store had closed, after which he checked everything else and gave me all tips he could think of for the next few days. And he didn't charge me a thing. You just have to stop there if you are ever in Fort Francis! After quite an eventful day, I wrapped up the evening with a delicious meal while listening stories about three other cross-Canada cyclists who had stayed just there a week ago.
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